How many cities can boast a unique genre of mooooosic?  Fado, sang with emotion and melancholy and often accompanied by a Portuguese 12 steel-string guitar, is typical of Lisbon and most famous throughout Portugal.  Fado originates back to Moorish times with thematic songs about the hardships of life, love and death.  No visit to Lisboa is complete without experiencing the soul and solitude of Fado.

After reading many positive reviews for Parreirinha de Alfama, I made a reservation for a Friday evening Fado performance.  Disoriented by the windy cobblestone alleys, I somehow arrived at this cozy casa do fado in time for dinner and entertainment.  Although I was sat at the deuce table near the entrance, all seats provided a view of the Fado artists who performed in the middle of this intimate authentic establishment.  From 9pm to past midnight, the lights dimmed for five different performers, including the owner/legendary fadista, Argentina Santos.  She was very friendly and talented and took a genuine interest in my experience as if she were my very own Portuguese grandmother.

I stayed at the Hotel Olissippo Castelo and was welcomed with Port wine and biscuits upon my arrival.  I highly recommend this hotel for its location, comfort, cleanliness and value.  The hotel was located adjacent to the Castelo do Sao Jorge (Saint George’s Castle), the highest point of the historic city center, allowing for amazing views of typical terracotta roof tops and Sao Vicente de Fora Church from the terrace of my room.  The tram stop is within steps of the hotel lobby with #12 and #28 routes that circle the Alfama district.  Purchase Portuguese tiles from the 16th century from neighboring antique shops and take a piece of Portugal home with you.

Cow Tip #1:  Leave your car in the garage, the terrain of the Alfama is steep and windy.  Nearby attractions are more easily accessible by foot

Cow Tip #2:  Make a reservation for Fado in advance (the night before sufficed for me) as interest is high and seating is limited.  Everyone was singing along except me!

Cow Tip #3:  Before your night out, visit Castelo do Sao Jorge for amazing panoramic views of the city including the Tagus River, the Cathedral, 25th de Abril Bridge, Figueira Square and more!