On my drive down from Porto to Lisbon, I stopped in Sintra to experience the mystery and magic I heard so much about.  As a summer residence of Portuguese wealth and royalty, Sintra is brimming with palaces, castles, estates and gardens waiting to charm and allure its many visitors.

My first stop was Quinta da Regaleira, an estate developed by intelligent yet eccentric Carvalho Monteiro in the early 1900s.  CM is one of the most intriguing characters in Sintra’s recent history.  He bought this beautiful 4 hectare property for the equivalent of 125€ (same price as my hotel room for 1 night!) and commissioned Luigi Manini to transform it according to his various alchemic interests.  I signed up for the English tour given by a passionate, knowledgeable student of tourism and history, Antonish.  He guided us through the journey of life from birth to the afterlife in CM’s exotic gardens while briefing us on the romantic architecture of the chapel and palace interior.  The symbolism and mystery is prevalent throughout his property focusing on the choices we make and the consequences of our decisions.  I felt reborn after my 2 hour tour!

The next morning, I reserved for a visit to the Palacio da Pena (Pena Palace) and Castelo dos Mouros (Mooooooorish Castle) which further displayed the fascinating cultural history in the high hills of Sintra.   I walked along the lakes and gardens of Parque da Pena before I reached the entrance to the Palace.  Pena Palace was the built by King consort Don Fernando in mid-1800s and served as a rural residence to the royal family.  It was constructed with a hybrid of architectural styles including Manueline, Islamic and Renaissance characteristics contributing to its beauty, color and splendor.  Audio guides are available to guide you through your visit inside one of the most important structures of Baroque romanticism in Portugal.    

The Moorish Castle is a short walk from Pena Park.  The Islamic influence on Portuguese culture may be traced back to the Moorish occupancy between the 9^th and 11^th centuries where they built their western most outpost in Sintra.  While the interior of the castle no longer remains, the outer walls and towers have withstood the test of time.  I walked the perimeter of the sloping path along the castle walls to experience the exhilarating views from the highest point of Sintra.    

If you are not palaced-out by now, consider visiting the Palacio Nacional de Sintra, identifiable by its two distinctive canonical chimneys.   And if you have more time in this fairy tale land, schedule a tee time on one of the many scenic golf courses nestled between the Sintra Mountain Range or hit Estoril for a relaxing day at the beach.  For me, however, I was Lisbon bound and ready to experience Lisbon nightlife.

Cow Tip #1:  Forgo the car rental as streets are narrow, hilly and windy while parking is scarce.  The drive from Porto to Lisbon is not that exciting as there are not coastal highways, not to mention the 80€ fee for returning the car in a different city (different country is 1200€!).  Consider frequent train schedule for transport by Portugal’s rail network.  There is a local tram for transport to main attractions in Sintra, or opt for a romantic horse and carriage ride

Cow Tip #2:  Book your hotel accommodations in advance.  I didn’t and was lucky to get the last room available in the entire city at Tivoli Sintra!  Palaces and castles are open from 10am to 5pm so plan your visit accordingly

Cow Tip #3:  Nightly events such as plays and musical concerts held in palace or castle properties are a great way to experience and absorb the surroundings